Surfing/ Wave Riding/ Sanctuary

“YEW” -Everyone on the coast

Go back and try to say it like its a bird call. There! That’s it! Ok, now read!


(Photo of my brother Bryce looking very smooth at “Out of Town” Ventura, CA)

Surfing. All of us down in San Diego have heard of it. In fact, I typically find that a majority of my college and high school friends who have yet to try the sport will have told at least one of their “surfer” friends that they would like to learn. Yet have never made the effort further than that single statement to get in the water atop a board.

Maybe you think it is an inconvenience? Don’t let it be one! Take your time. Just let it happen when it can happen. Maybe you don’t have the gear? If your friend wants to teach you, they will figure that part out for you. Maybe you’re scared the day of? They once were too. Two is better than one. Remember that, because that friend won’t leave you out there alone. It’s part of the culture. So no more excuses.

Now ask! seriously. Right now. Go ahead, text that person this instant!

Speaking from experience as a stereotyped “surfer” by my friends and family, there is nothing more I would enjoy doing than spending time with anyone who is willing to learn how to surf for more than just a “photo of the day” to post on social media. For me, someone needs to show diligence in asking and performing. If part of the focus is to get a picture, then there is no chance that that person will be able to reach their goal per the lack of focus. It takes all of your heart and all of your brain to conquer something new in one session. Get focused so you can earn the respect that translates to reaching maximum potential.

So advice, I guess, DO NOT be afraid to ask your “surfer” friend to teach you how to surf. But follow up! Endlessly! More than likely, chances are that that friend will do whatever necessary in order to get you out in the water; given they believe in your interest.

The reason your “surfer” friend will get you out in the water is because surfing is a sanctuary to them. The combination of the feeling, the surrounding, and the essence is something that they have found admiration for.


(Photo of me getting “Knosty”with a piece of wood. Santa Barbara, CA)

The feeling. There is no way to explain the feeling of surfing. It is a per soul unique feeling that the rider may only experience their self  Dang, when you feel it, you know it, then you can never forget it.

The surrounding. The ocean! It’s where we surf (I hope.) The surrounding adds to the ultimate feeling. The ocean really serves as the physical aspect for the sanctuary analogy. The ocean supplies the isolation aspect of the term sanctuary. It’s an entirely separate platform from land. The atmosphere out in the water, disconnected from the world, is something intensely peaceful. Even with crowds. Cool thing about crowds, they’re all there for the same peace, so don’t worry about the others. I believe this literally disconnection from land is a key for “surfers” to fall in love with the sport. No land, no problems (knock on wood.)

The essence. The essence of surfing is art. Art with the body, art with the board, art with the mind. Any form that really serves as an expression; style in the most simple words. That is the beautiful part of surfing. Everyone has their own unique style. Throwing arms, stanky legging, tweaking and jerking back and forth, or even making a whopping face while in tune, focusing on racing the wave. It’s all subconscious style. It’s all majestic and acceptable. Acceptance. Isn’t that nice.


(Photo of my cousin Austin, unleashing his essence at “Out of Town” Ventura, CA)

So what else do you want from a sanctuary? An easy feeling discovered within. A remote location disconnecting from the busier life. Combined with a free expression of uniqueness that is untouchable… Sounds like a good deal to me for simply convincing your “surfer” that your intentions are serious.

Soooooooooooo, move my friends! And let me know how the asking part goes! I am interested to see if my theory lines up with the thoughts of others who enjoy their surfing experience as much as I do(:

-Always “swing the bat.” Keep swinging that thing until it gets you to move. In baseball it is supposed to take you on-base. In the real world, swinging the bat is supposed to get you anywhere other than the place you stared. “You gotta swing the bat.”-


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